Rooiberg Rock Climbing

Information From the Wolfberg Guidebook by Tony Lourens.

The Rooiberg Mountain is on the farm of Nuwerus which is owned by Louise Esterhuizen and Steven Windell. The crags, which are situated about 40 minutes walk from the farmstead, were only developed recently and offer great routes on typical hard Cederberg rock with massive potential for literally hundreds of routes, so grab your drill (or your trad gear) and head on out.

The farm has good camping and chalets and has a large boma with a huge fireplace, outside pub and DSTV, with Steven and Louise offering great farm-style hospitality. It is best to climb here in the warmer months as the crag is westfacing and gets the sun from around 1.30 pm. In winter it gets hardly any sun and can be very chilly. Besides the climbing, Nuwerus Farm has some great hiking trails on which you can explore the typical Cederberg country, down spectacular valleys and over rocky mountains.

Bolting: Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.

Click on the image to view the actual routes

Approach: To the left of the round swimming pool are some shed-like buildings. From behind these buildings make your way through a series of gates to gain the river bank. Boulder-hop across the river and find the start of the trail that leads up to the huge brown amphitheatre and over the Rooiberg. Follow the trail to the foot of the rock (about 40 minutes), then go left and up the slope for 100 m or so to the start of the climbing on a square protuding buttress.

Please note that the routes on these crags are quite long and it is advisable to use a 60 m rope. The routes are discribed from right to left, as this is the way you approach the crags. The two trad routes were saved from the drill at the last minute and are fine additions to the crag!